November 8, 2012
APRES MAI: APRES MAI - Bande originale du film

apresmai:

01 Terrapin - Syd Barrett
02 Green Onions - Booker T & The MG’s
03 Strings in the Earth and Air - Dr Strangely Strange
04 Two Dances: Almaine / Bransle for my Lady’s Delight - Amazing Blondel
05 Know - Nick Drake
06 Air - Incredible String Band
07 Sunrise of the Third System - Tangerine…

i love that i’m followed by the tumblr for olivier assayas’s latest film

September 1, 2012

I didn’t spend my time skulking around Parisian hotels in a latex catsuit, but the alienation and befuddlement that Maggie Cheung feels in Irma Vep is similar to my experience in France. A state of being where the only way to feel vital is to have someone notice you and project onto you a personality that you’re not sure you have. 

That’s not to say that I didn’t love France, though. 

May 27, 2012

1. Random guy playing saxophone across the street from my hostel - everybody else on this block are drunken louts, but he makes a better impression. This also reminds me of how much spontaneous singing and music playing I happened to be around when exploring this city (and no, not from buskers, but private citizens…and a choir full of elderly people). Coincidence? Maybe. Enjoyable? Yes. 

2. (45 Rue des Tourneurs) The pros of this wine bar are as follows: it makes it’s own liqueur (see #3), the walls inside are decorated with these somber landscape murals, the owner is chatty. The cons? The wine portions are tiny, the owner is chatty

3. Quinquina, and the tree bark used to make it

4. Discussion time: why do hobos always have dogs with them? 

5. And are merry-go-rounds less pointless if they look this cool?

May 26, 2012

In feeling, Montpellier is as similar to me as Marseille is. You walk through the city and it looks much the same as it did during the French Revolution, minus the modern storefronts, the metal or plastic poled terrace umbrellas, the current make-up of minorities. I like it much more than Marseille, though. Maybe I have to give that other city another chance. 

When is the exact moment that you fall in love with a city?* For this one, it might have been the tropical, haunted beauty, to which I don’t do justice in the second photo of this set. Or the art in the W. Eugene Smith photography exhibit and the Musée Fabre. Above all, I think it was when I came across this kebab stand. Actually, my couchsurfing host told me to come here, saying it sold the best kebabs in the whole city. And for the most part, it didn’t disappoint—the portions of pork were so thick and textured, the fries well-salted. I spoke a little to the proprietor, whom I’ll call Cesar (the name of the stand is Pizza Cesar, maybe with a Z, I forget, and it’s on Rue Faubourg du Courreau), who bragged that he makes the pork and the fries from scratch. He also asked me if I mostly associated with Americans or French in France, and when I said that I had some American friends, he said that was bad for my language skills. It’s always great to pay for unsolicited assessments about how well you speak a foreign language, huh? 

Come to think of it, there wasn’t enough harissa sauce on my kebab, either. So I think what really clinched my love for this stand was how it was decorated, from the chalk tablet signs advertising “iced coffee 1 euro 30” and “Sandwich Magret de Canard” in red and yellow cursive to the matching counter, from the new-fangled looking espresso machine to the scratched up black tables. Like many hole-in-the-wall restaurants, Pizza Cesar seems so makeshift, but look closely, and you can see the understated intention in its style. And as I walked home, swinging that kebab around by its plastic bag, I noticed everybody mingling on the sidewalk, the small wine shops, the frenchmorrocanturkishtunisian boulangeriepatisseries, the makeshift terraces with men sipping mint tea in decorative glasses.

It was 8 o’clock. The sun hadn’t even begun to set. 

I was running late for my train the next day, but I still stopped by to try that roasted duck breast sandwich. If I hadn’t wolfed it down so quickly, I could say for sure that I loved that too. Especially the herbal tartar sauce that Cesar drizzled on top. 

(* Honestly, I’ve never been in love with a city. Not even New York, not even Beijing, nor Paris. But if I said I liked x city more than others, that wouldn’t sound as interesting, would it?)

April 22, 2012

Happy election day! Today is the first round of voting in France’s presidential contest, after which incumbent Nicolas Sarkozy and Socialist Party candidate François Hollande will likely face off for the ultimate seat. 

I’ve followed the election with interest, but also in a state of befuddlement. This is due to language and cultural differences, and also inconsistency and laziness on my part. Going to the above rally for Trotskyist candidate Nathalie Arthaud came out of pure happenstance. On a whim, I starting talking to a guy on the street who was selling Lutte Ouvrière’s monthly newspaper for one euro, which led to us exchanging phone numbers, and then to us meeting several times to talk about French politics and communism. 

It’s been absurd, but ultimately informative to learn about French politics through a fringe, far-left political party. For instance, I hadn’t quite realized how influential communism has been in this country, and still is. Nathalie Arthaud has been polling under 1% for the first round, as has her predecessor, Arlette Laguiller in the six previous elections she has run in. Yet it still seems as if both ladies have a relatively high profile. Wikipedia says Laguiller is known in France on a first name basis, and one teacher who saw me reading the Lutte Ouvrière pamphlet told me that she was the Sarah Palin of France. Since they have completely different views, what I took away from that was that they’re both notorious, charismatic women, and if Palin represents a part of the American electorate that we can’t ignore (try as we might), then maybe Laguiller means the same for France. 

The Lutte Ouvrière presidential platform involves such proposals as forbidding layoffs and continually dividing labor to ensure employment. Oh, to live in such a world! But candidates with way more popular support have also touted proposals like these. For example, Front de Gauche candidate Jean-Luc Mélenchon is also for promising a ban of layoffs, and he’s expected to poll third or fourth in the first round. Furthermore, his party is partly made up of the former Marxist French Communist party, a further testament to how much more accepted communist groups and their ideas are in France. 

When I started teaching here, I was surprised a how differently France and the US administrate their educational system, but still ended up with the same mediocre results. I feel that way about both countries’ economies, too. If the US is inflexibly, reflexively individualistic, pro-small government and anti-taxes, then France is bullheaded as well, but in the opposite direction. And one can argue that its economy is even worse off than America’s. I’ve come across articles in the English-language media recently that accuse French politicians of being dishonest about their country’s economic reality, proposing supposedly crazy plans like a 75% income tax on the rich, instead of being honest about how necessary austerity is. When I mentioned this opinion to another teacher while he drove me home from our school, he dismissed it as a typical Anglophone attempt to get France to liberalize at the expense of its social services, of its people.

I’m inclined to agree, especially when the Economist is involved. It would definitely be tragic for the country to lose its generous social welfare system, and I also like taxing the rich. Still, I’m less inclined to even support the Front de Gauche, or even the Socialists, based on what I’ve observed in this country, namely about how low the salaries are, and how it’s already so hard to fire workers here that companies don’t hire enough in the first place. It’s complicated, for sure, but I think there’s a point to be made about how inefficient France’s economy is, and how it needs to become a leaner machine, somehow. But what do I know? I made that last sentence intentionally vague because I haven’t taken an economics class since sophomore year of college. 

But bringing up the ban on layoffs again, during the first time we hung out, I tried to ask my communist friend about how Arthaud would actually make policies like this work for the government. His reply: “I’m not sure.” In fact, it doesn’t seem like Lutte Ouvrière is that interested in saving this government, what with all its mentions of “dismantling the capitalist system” and “revolution,” which my friend clarified as meaning a spontaneous proletarian uprising, only with a better end than in the Soviet Union or in China. 

I guess that’s the benefit of being on the fringe. You don’t have to lie about the endgame. 

April 7, 2012
A question

A question

5:57am  |   URL: http://tmblr.co/ZgmJ6xJEUQdM
  
Filed under: france travel graffiti 
March 17, 2012
Teaching English in Northern France, a Survival Guide

After almost six months in France, I have come to the conclusion that it is possible to enjoy working as a teaching assistant for the Academy of Amiens (one of the drearier parts of France, to be honest). There’s just a ton of bull that you have to wade through first before you can devote yourself to having a good time. For any future assistants out there, here are some tips I wish I had known of before I came to France.

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12:42pm  |   URL: http://tmblr.co/ZgmJ6xI7nES8
  
Filed under: france how to tapif 
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